Displaying and caring for figurines and statues

Figurines and statues are made to be looked at, but every material reacts differently to light, dust, knocks and cleaning. A few simple habits keep a display looking as good in ten years as it does today.

Know your materials

Cold-cast resin

Much modern giftware, from hand-painted collectible figurines to gothic and fantasy statues, is cold-cast resin: a polyester or polyurethane resin, often mixed with powdered stone or metal, poured into a mould and hand-painted. It is heavy for its size, holds very fine detail and is surprisingly brittle. Thin parts such as wings, swords and fingers chip if knocked. The paint sits on the surface and is usually not sealed for washing, so keep resin away from water.

Porcelain and ceramic

Porcelain is fired at high temperature and has a hard, often glazed surface. It resists fading well but is fragile and shatters if dropped. Glazed porcelain without electrics or applied decorations can usually be cleaned gently with lukewarm water and a drop of mild washing-up liquid, then dried thoroughly. Many lit village pieces are ceramic or porcelain with built-in lighting, so never immerse those.

Vinyl

Vinyl figures are light and fairly tough but can yellow or fade in sunlight, and soft vinyl can attract dust. A soft brush or a barely damp microfibre cloth is enough.

Dusting without damage

Dust little and often. A soft make-up brush or a clean, soft paintbrush gets into detail without catching on edges. A hand-held air blower, of the kind sold for camera lenses, lifts dust from deep crevices. Avoid feather dusters, which can snag, and avoid household sprays and polishes, which can strip paint or leave a film. Always lift a piece by its base or most solid part, never by a protruding limb.

Light and UV

Direct sunlight fades painted surfaces and can discolour resin and vinyl over time. Choose a wall that does not get direct sun, or use blinds or UV-filtering film on the window. Turn display lights off when nobody is looking at them.

Glass cabinets

A glass display cabinet is the single best upgrade for a collection: it cuts dusting dramatically and keeps curious hands and paws away. Look for a sturdy base, glass shelves that are thick enough for the weight you plan to load, and a cabinet that can be fixed to the wall with anti-tip brackets, especially in homes with children. Leave space between pieces so you can remove one without knocking another. A small amount of museum putty or museum wax under a base helps stop pieces walking on a shelf.

LED lighting and heat

LED strips and spotlights are the right choice for lit cabinets. They give off far less heat and UV than old halogen bulbs, which could make an enclosed cabinet warm enough to stress resin and glue. LEDs are not completely cold, though: the driver or transformer gets warm, so mount it outside the cabinet or where air can circulate. A warm white light flatters most painted pieces, while a cooler white suits glass and metallic finishes.

Keep the paperwork

Keep original boxes and certificates in a dry place. They protect pieces during a house move and are often expected if you ever sell. A photo record of your display is also useful for home insurance.

General information only. Product contents, rules and policies change, so check the current details with the manufacturer or seller. Brand names are trademarks of their owners; this guide is independent and sells nothing.