Tabletop No. 02
Painting miniatures for beginners: from primer to finished model
Priming, basecoats, shades, layers and drybrushing, plus how to thin paint and look after your brushes.
A painted army looks intimidating, but every model on the table was painted with a small set of techniques done in order. Learn these five steps and you can paint almost anything to a good tabletop standard. Precision comes later, with practice.
1. Prime
Primer is an undercoat that bonds to bare plastic, resin or metal and gives paint something to grip. Black primer hides gaps and suits darker schemes; white or grey makes bright colours pop. Spray in short, sweeping passes from 20 to 30 cm away, letting each pass dry. Too much primer in one go fills in detail. Cold or humid weather can leave a rough, dusty finish, so pick a mild, dry day.
2. Basecoat
The basecoat is the main colour of each area: armour, cloth, skin, metal. The secret is two thin coats rather than one thick one. Thick paint hides detail and dries with brush marks. Aim for coverage that is slightly patchy after the first coat and smooth after the second.
3. Shade or wash
A shade (often called a wash) is a very thin, pigment-rich paint that runs into recesses and darkens them, instantly adding depth. Brush it over the whole area or apply it only into the creases for a cleaner look. Do not let it pool on flat surfaces, where it dries as a tide mark. Let it dry completely before moving on.
4. Layer and highlight
Layering means painting the original colour, or a slightly lighter one, back over the raised areas, leaving the shade visible in the recesses. An edge highlight is a fine line of a lighter colour along sharp edges, which catches the eye at arm's length. Use thin paint and the tip of the brush, and accept that steady hands come with practice.
5. Drybrush
Drybrushing is the beginner's best friend for fur, chainmail, rocks and bases. Load an old or dedicated drybrush with paint, wipe almost all of it off on kitchen roll, then flick the brush lightly across the model. Only the raised texture picks up colour. Build it up gradually and finish with a lighter colour on the very top.
Contrast-style paints
Several brands now make one-coat paints that combine a basecoat and shade. Applied over a light primer, they settle darker in the recesses and lighter on raised areas. They are excellent for quickly painting large numbers of models and work well alongside traditional methods.
Thinning your paint
Most acrylic hobby paints are too thick straight from the pot. Put a little on a palette and add water a drop at a time. For basecoats, aim for roughly the feel of single cream; for layers and highlights, closer to semi-skimmed milk. A wet palette, a shallow tray with a damp sponge under baking paper, keeps paint workable for hours.
Brush care
- Keep paint out of the ferrule, the metal collar. Load only the front two thirds of the bristles.
- Rinse often in clean water and never leave a brush standing on its tip in the pot.
- Use brush soap or mild soap at the end of a session, reshape the tip and let it dry lying flat.
- Use an old brush for drybrushing and glue, and save your best one for detail.
Finishing touches
Paint the base: a texture paint or sand, a drybrush and a contrasting rim make any model look finished. A matt varnish protects the paint from handling during games. Most importantly, finish models before starting new ones. A painted squad of five beats a box of thirty grey models every time.
General information only. Product contents, rules and policies change, so check the current details with the manufacturer or seller. Brand names are trademarks of their owners; this guide is independent and sells nothing.